The smell of collard greens simmering low and slow, a cast iron skillet of cornbread crackling in the oven, and biscuits ...

“I love the sweet aroma of squirrel, and I’m surprised at most folks’ inexperience with serving the little guys,” says chef Levon Wallace, who heads up the kitchen at Proof on Main in Louisville, Ky.

Squirrels seem to be everywhere until you need a few for your Buttermilk Fried Squirrel recipe. On stage at Smithsonian Food History Weekend, Chef Jason Flores and I shared Oklahoma-style cooking and ...